Vehicle Storage

There are differences between short-term and long-term storage. A little upfront protection will help your car be ready when you need it--without maintenance headaches!

Do you have:

a car parked at the airport for 2 weeks?
a sports car or convertible that only comes out in fair weather?
a utility vehicle or truck that's only used for special trips?
a car parked until it's sold?

Short-term storage - 8 days to 6 weeks

Short-term storage involves protecting the battery and tires.

1. Storage switch. Some cars have a storage switch or fuse that can be tripped to keep things like dome lights and non-essential systems from needlessly draining the battery. Check the owner's manual for the switch location or special fuse location.

2. Use a battery charger to maintain battery charge and eliminate data loss in on-board systems that happens when the battery wears down or is disconnected. The electronics in modern cars can drain the battery in as little as 8-10 days. Tow companies make good money at airports from stranded drivers with drained batteries. During winter months, drained or discharged batteries will freeze and become permanently damaged or useless.

There are two types of battery chargers:

Solar Panel Battery Chargers are readily available, versatile and easy-to-use. They can be hung in the window of the garage at home with an extension cable and clips to trickle-charge the battery. If the car is outside or at an airport, the charger can be placed on the dash or suction-cupped to a window. In hot weather it can peek through a cut-out in the sunshade. A 12 volt solar charger is available on-line or at Radio Shack stores for around $80. More solar equipment can be found at www.icpsolar.com (the smaller unit would be suitable for short term storage, larger unit for long term storage.) See also www.cetsolar.com.
Electric (plug-in) Battery Chargers are functional but not portable. You need 115V power nearby. Electric chargers can be small, inexpensive models that trickle charge the battery all the way up to an expensive, heavy-duty model with special circuitry to restore a drained battery or jump start a car. Start with www.batterytender.com for a good selection.

3. Tires. Check tire pressure and take note of any tire that is lower than the others. Have those tires checked for leaks and repaired prior to storage, so you don't return to discover a flat tire.

Long-term storage - 6 weeks to 6 years

Long-term storage involves protecting the battery and tires PLUS the motor oil, fuel, interior, and exterior. Please also read short-term storage recommendations above.

1. Motor oil. Change the engine oil prior to storage of more than 3 months to remove dirty oil. Dirty engine oil will thicken after long-term storage and cause hard starting when the car is later revived.

2. Battery and electrical system. First, do NOT disconnect the battery! Computer and radio memory will be lost. Disconnecting the battery on any car can cause voltage spikes and--small though they may be--I have seen damaged components caused by this. Also, any battery that is to be stored in the winter MUST be fully charged and the charge must be maintained to prevent freezing. A fully-charged battery also eliminates the need for a jump start maneuver when reviving the car from storage.

3. Tires. Tires left standing still with the weight of the car on them can sometimes develop a flat spot on the casing. Flat spots cause a thumping noise or a vibration at low speeds of 5 to 20mph. Flat spots can smooth out with use after storage or remain permanently. Tire damage is more likely to effect cheaper "S" or "T" rated tires. "H" rated or higher tires are better at tolerating storage. I do not recommend that the car be placed on jack stands, as this adds greatly to the effort required to store a car and removes the opportunity for quarterly start-up if stored in a garage.

For all tires, raise tire pressure 10 psi from the normal of 32 psi For "LT" rated SUV tires, you can raise pressure to as much as 45 psi or 50 psi. Check tire pressure monthly at first. Check less frequently when you know the pressures remain stable over the months. Repair any tire that loses pressure faster than the others, as under-inflation will damage the casing and sidewall quickly. Small air compressors suitable for this task are available at auto parts or hardware stores. See my maintenance tips for more on tires. See my maintenance tips for more on tires.

4. Gasoline. Gasoline will break down after as little as 3 months and start to separate into its base components which cause varnish buildup that can lead to starting problems and expensive repairs. Varnish is much more likely to be present in cars that are stored outside where temperature changes are more extreme. However, cars built in 1996 or later have a tighter fuel system that might allow little or no air into the gas tank to cause fuel breakdown.

First, fill the tank. Then add a stabilizing additive Sta-Bil™ which can be found at the hardware or auto parts store. Sta-Bil™ should be used in all gasoline-powered equipment during storage including lawn mowers and boats. Mostly designed for boats or small equipment that go into storage every winter, Sta-Bil™ additive is cheap insurance come spring-time. Finally, make sure the gas cap is tight.

5. Interior. The interior of the car will need no special maintenance if the car is stored inside out of the sun.

First, clean up and vacuum to reduce odors.
Next, cover the seats with an inexpensive, thin emergency-style "Hunter's Blanket" available at sporting goods stores. Although modern vehicle interiors are very ultraviolet (UV) ray resistant, in extreme climates like the desert or high altitude UV rays can still get the best of the upholstery. Place the hunter's blanket shiny side down to protect the interior during outdoor storage. Two blankets may be needed for larger cars and SUVs. When finished, store it in your trunk with your emergency kit.
Last, get a sunshade for the windshield and don't forget one for the back glass! This will keep much of the heat and light out of the car and add to the effectiveness of the hunter's blanket.

6. Exterior. Exterior paint preparation will prevent paint fading and make the revival process quick and painless. Have the paint buffed and waxed by a professional detailer prior to storage. "Buffing" the paint involves a spinning wool pad and special compounds to smooth out the small imperfections, followed with a high quality wax to seal the pores of the paint. This creates a shield effect that preserves the finish. A full buff-and-wax job should cost about $100 to $175 and makes the car easy to clean up during revival with just a simple car wash.

7. Quarterly start-up. A quarterly start-up will assure that the car is ready when you are. Remove the battery charger. Check the engine compartment for damage or nests. Start the car, check for proper brake pedal action, back it out of the garage. Let the vehicle warm up for 20 minutes while you cycle all the switches one at a time to activate all the systems of the car. This quarterly start-up will circulate the engine oil and other fluids like air conditioning refrigerant. Stirring the fluids allows the systems to be properly preserved. When finished, park the car and confirm that all switches and lights are turned off. Reconnect the battery charger and replace the interior shades and blankets.

8. Revival. After long term storage, open the windows to air out the car while checking the fluid levels under the hood. Check and adjust tire pressure back to normal spec. Perform the quarterly start-up (above).

Then go for a short drive to the car wash. The brakes will likely be noisy after storage due to rust accumulation on the brake rotors. This brake noise is normal and should go away quickly. Follow the trip to the car wash with a long drive of about one hour to ensure the systems have all come up to operating temperature and the rust has been rubbed off of the brakes. If the ventilation system smells moldy, have the cabin filter changed.

Sometimes after storage a ticking noise is heard that was never there before. This may need to be confirmed by your technician. A "Lifter Tick" may come to life and can sound bad but it may be nothing to worry about. The tick noise should go away within a few minutes to as much as an hour, and may return in the morning with a cold start, but should be back to normal within a few days.

Happy Motoring!

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