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Oil change intervals and maintenance
Does the old standard of 3 months or 3,000 miles still stand true?
Oil
service intervals have sometimes changed over the years, with some car
makers saying that 10,000 miles between oil changes is OK—only
to back off later and recommend shorter intervals due to an increase
in warranty engine repairs. Toyota lengthened the oil change interval
in the mid-80s. SAAB did so in the late 90s and have recently taken heat
from customers suffering premature engine problems.
The oil change interval depends on your vehicle model and your driving and maintenance habits.
The only reason to stay with the "old school" interval of 3 months/3,000 miles is if you never want to lift the hood to check or test the oil, or if the engine is in poor shape and dirties the oil quickly. It takes just a little planning--and a Second Opinion oil test kit.
So I recommend...
For BMWs with an 7 or 8 quart capacity, I recommend full synthetic
motor oil and a 6 month - 6,000 mile interval or much longer only
if the oil is field tested every 1,500 miles and oil level checked
every 1,000 miles.
For all other passenger cars and light trucks with gasoline engines, I recommend the following guideline:
Oil and Filter Type
- FILTER: Mobil 1 high-efficiency oil filter
- OIL: Valvoline
- All-climate oil for vehicles up to 1994 (non-turbo models)
- Semi-synthetic oil for 1995 to 2000 (non-turbo) models
- Full-synthetic oil for turbocharged and high-performance engines up to 2000 model years
- Full-synthetic oil for all cars 2001 or newer
- WEIGHT: 10w40 up to 1989, 10w30 up to 1995, 5w30 for 1996 and newer.
PLEASE NOTE: Cars that are on the list of sludge-prone engines should use only Full-synthetic.
Oil Change Interval
- A minimum interval of 3 months/3,000 miles, oil level checked every 1,000 miles, tested at 3,000 miles. If good, then...
- Test every 1,500 miles after that to establish a baseline for your engine. Then keep testing to see how far you can go and still get decent test results!
- Always consult your technician with any questions!
For people who drive mostly on the highway, the interval can be extended by 20% or more due to consistent engine temperature over time. Modern cars are tougher than ever and burn cleaner with each new model, leading to longer intervals and less expense if the correct type of high quality oil is used.
Be aware that some cars have maintenance timers that calculate the type of driving and then activate a "maintenance required" message or warning light, sometimes going as far as 20,000 miles between oil changes. This was used by the dealership service department to allow their "maintenance-included" plan for new cars to be administered by the on-board timer, only providing the free/included oil changes if the light or message was lit and only then. If you are involved in a maintenance-included service plan I urge you to have the vehicle serviced more often, at your own expense, in order to avoid problems later after the warranty has expired.
Brake fluid
Brake fluid has been and still is the most neglected maintenance item.
Car makers have excluded brake fluid in the maintenance schedule in order to keep the costs of long term service to a minimum. This won't effect you if you have leased your car or don't plan on keeping it past the warranty period. However, if you plan on driving your car past 100,000 or 200,000 miles, changing the brake fluid every 2 years will have a significant impact on long term repair costs by preventing expensive brake or clutch hydraulic system repairs (clutches use brake fluid).
<< See comparison pictures below of dirty and clean brake fluid >>
Special tools and chemical test strips are available for testing brake fluid, but since brake fluid naturally attracts and absorbs moisture (hygroscopic) it will need to be changed. The color of the fluid is a good indication of its current state. Check it yourself with a flashlight; yellow to amber means it's OK for now, amber to light brown (or darker) means it is time for a change. Some cars will soil the brake or clutch fluid faster than others. Driving habits and road conditions will also have an effect on fluid longevity.
Automatic transmission oil change
There is a school of thought that says: if you have NOT been servicing the automatic transmission fluid, it is too dirty and should not be changed. Why? Because it's thought that the new fluid with its fresh detergent load could flush out debris and cause an immediate or latent failure.
Of
all the dirty transmission oil I have changed, I have only seen this
happen once, so it seems to have some validity, even if very rare. The
lesson is: do it right and change the A/T oil by the manufacturer's
schedule.
Does your newer model have "Lifetime" oil installed at the factory? These lifetime oils also have special properties, that if replaced with a cheaper or different type of fluid could cause the transmission to develop symptoms or even fail prematurely. Lifetime oils would also be expensive to replace if serviced like an ordinary transmission. Ask your technician and make sure of your type.
What's the bottom line? Ultimately, the jury is still out on this subject, although regular maintenance seems to pay off for my customers with higher mileage and original transmissions of any oil type.
Additives
If you walk into an auto parts store you will notice an entire aisle devoted to additives. So which ones work and which ones don't? In my experience most don't do anything at all and some are just re-packaged chemicals like isopropyl alcohol (available at the drug store for a fraction of the cost).
But some additives actually DO what they say they'll do.
Once
I saved a customer a transmission replacement with nothing more than
an additive. Check with your technician and ask him what he recommends
for your specific car or system. I have been using in my own car and
recommending BG Products for
decades and have seen incredible results with my own eyes.
CAUTION: Some car makers specifically state "no additives needed or recommended" and others have their own line of products available in the parts department. During the warranty period of your car I suggest staying with the car maker's policy in order to avoid any trouble. After the warranty is expired, you are in charge and your goal is maximum life span.
Is your car still under warranty?
New car warranties are wonderful if they are administered properly.
Warranties are included in the price of the new car, like pre-paid repairs in a way, but it's your responsibility to MANAGE the policy. If you need help understanding the terms of a "New Car Warranty," the dealership service department or service advisor can help you.
Search for a good service advisor at the dealership in the same way you would search for an independent garage or technician. Ask them what is the best time to call them (so you can get their undivided attention) to talk about the new car warranty. You need to know what is covered and for how long. You also need to know how much the scheduled (non-warranty) maintenance will cost each year so you can be prepared.
For "Extended Warranties", the same applies. If you need help understanding an extended warranty, get in touch with your garage of choice and set up a time when you can stop by with the policy and go over it in detail. Chances are they have seen that type of policy before and can help you make sense of it. Knowing what is covered in advance of a breakdown can be a huge time saver.
About warranty service
Any repairs or maintenance that you have to pay for--you have a choice where to get service.
Warranties are included in the price of the new car. Just because the original warranty is still in effect doesn't mean you have to go to the dealer for oil changes or maintenance work. Again, ANYTHING THAT YOU HAVE TO PAY FOR-- YOU HAVE A CHOICE WHERE TO TAKE IT.
Why do I emphasize this point?
If the dealer is performing an oil change or major service, for instance, they are NOT allowed to mention a warranty repair that they have seen or located. I know this sounds crazy, but it's true ! You, the owner, must first complain (about whatever) before an even obvious warranty claim can be turned in to the manufacturer. Dealer technicians are usually not allowed to "up-sell" warranty repairs to the manufacturer. Where does THAT leave you?
Even if free or "included" maintenance services are provided, the car should be inspected and serviced by an independent technician. An independent (non-dealer) technician, like myself, should be willing and able to inspect for warranty repairs and advise you on how to complain properly at the dealer so the warranty can be put to its full use. And why not use it? It was part of the purchase price of the car, wasn't it?
Secret warranties
Safety items, like seat belts and fuel systems, may have repair costs that are subsidized by the manufacturer for the life of the car. Honda has a "lifetime" warranty on seat belts, regardless of age or mileage. Nissan has a recall on fuel injectors. Most other cars have some form of extended or "unlimited" type of coverage on seat belts and safety items that is generally unknown to the public.
To find out what "secret" coverage your car may still have, call your local dealership and ask the service department: What is the warranty on seat belts and safety items? Are there any outstanding service campaigns or bulletins available? If so, what is the cost for those repairs—are they free?
While you are on the phone to the dealer, check to be sure they have your current address on file, as new issues may come up in the future that require them to send a Notice of Recall in the mail. Yes, if they have your current address they will send you coupons and other ad-spam to get you to come in for service or to sell you a new car. Just recycle those while watching for recalls and bulletins to arrive about your particular car model. No matter how old your car is, you should keep your address updated with the manufacturer, just in case.
Extended warranties
100,000 miles. That is the time during which extended warranties are available to purchase and manage. What are extended warranties?
Extended warranties are really just an insurance policy against repair costs, often issued by a subsidiary of a larger insurance company. After 100,000 miles, these policies become prohibitively expensive to purchase and, if purchased, usually won't cover much besides the very basic of parts. It may also have a claim limit for total amount spent and become void or expire at the claim limit.
Like other policies, this form of insurance has its limitations. For instance:
- Diagnostic charges are limited or not paid
- Miscellaneous charges like tax, fluids and shop supplies are usually not paid
- A maximum allowable labor rate may be in place
- Used or reconditioned parts might be mandated at certain price points
- The policy might limit where you can take the car for repairs
- A deductible of $50 to $100 per claim event is standard in most policies
- Maintenance parts are not covered under any circumstances
How does it all add up? In general, a $1000 claim for repairs will end up costing you from between $50 and $400 depending on the type of repair. So, are these policies worth buying?
In my opinion, the more expensive the vehicle, the more likely the policy will pay for itself. If that new car cost $25,000 or more, the $3,500 policy is a good deal. If that new or used car cost $10,000, an expensive insurance policy is adding too much to the cost of the car. Buying a "cut-rate" policy probably won't help, the exclusions and limitations present in "budget" policies are frustrating and disappointing to both the car owner and the repair garage.
Correct tires = safety + cost savings
Luxury and performance cars have special tire requirements, choosing the wrong tire can have unexpected side effects.
SAAB and BMW, for instance, recommend a "speed rated" tire. Speed ratings are not just an indication of how fast a tire can safely spin, they are also an indication of overall tire quality and construction. ABS (anti-lock braking system) performance can be affected by inferior tires, contributing to longer stopping distances in a panic stop event. Cornering and emergency maneuvers can also be affected.
The real measure of a tires quality can be seen in the three little digits following the size numbers: such as 225/50R16 89S. The " 89S " are the number(s) that indicate the tire's load and speed rating. The first two digits (89) represent the tire's load index and the single letter (S) identifies the tire's speed rating. The technical details of these ratings are available at tirerack.com .
Because of their weight, some models of BMW require a 100H rated tire, while some SAAB's require a 93V because of their raw power. Check the tire application label that is on the door jamb or frame of your car and see what tire should be on your ride right now.
Higher speed, load-rated tires do cost more, but they perform better on any car and last longer due to more durable rubber compounds in the tread and stronger casing design. These long-lasting characteristics in many cases extend tire life so much that you may actually save money over the long run compared to cheaper tires that must be replaced more often.
For more on tires see my answers to Common Car Myths >>
Ways to reduce fuel consumption
Here's some detailed information that shows how your car systems interact to use fuel, and simple steps to make them work better--and use less fuel!
